1880s women's fashion was defined by the rigidly structured bustle and an abundance of decoration. Fashion Plate: "Paris dress", October 1801. Hairdressing further underscored the classical inspiration of the era; styles were frequently given names from antiquity such lAgrippine and la Phdre (le Bourhis 80). Pinterest. However, the followers of the Rational Dress movement were more concerned with the unhealthiness of current fashions, than artistic pursuits. Silk. As mentioned above, breeches or pantaloons with tall boots was a favorite fashion of the era, and lent civilian dress a martial allure (le Bourhis 112; Ashelford 186). Figure 12 depicts Aesthetic women on either side of the painting, which contrasts with women wearing mainstream fashions in the center. He elevated the style with painstaking perfection. It was a dress without a horizontal waist seam, instead molded snuggly to the body by vertical seams and tucks, creating a body-hugging silhouette (Fig. Sad News, ca. Throughout the second half of the nineteenth century, several artistic groups were reacting against the new, industrial era, and looking to the past for true beauty. 1880s Sportswear, 1880s. 1880s womens fashion was defined by the rigidly structured bustle and an abundance of decoration. They featured stand collars and could be made of a variety of materials, solid or patterned; indeed, most of the color left in mens clothing retreated to the waistcoat (Fig. Luxury in menswear was now expressed through a perfect fit of each element of a mans wardrobe, and Britains exceptional tailors led the way (Waugh 112). 1880-1883. By 1810, skirts were much straighter, and the fullness that was left in the skirt was concentrated at the back, while the front was flat, falling straight to the floor (Fig. In 1885, the famous Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde wrote in his essay, The Philosophy of Dress: Fashion rests upon folly. 2, 7) (Johnston 146, le Bourhis 95, 104). Mens clothing in the 1880s was marked by a long, slender frame. Unless specifically noted, images used in the Timeline are not subject to this Creative Commons License applied to the written work from the Timeline. The Timeline offers scholarly contributions to the public knowledge of the history of fashion and design. The History of Clothing Of The 1830s Plan Explore Educate About Support Protected: Clothing of the 1830s Home Educate Protected: Indiana History Protected: Clothing of the 1830s This content is password protected. Pinterest. In Philosophy of Dress, he argued against the very concept of fashion, writing: A fashion is merely a form of ugliness so absolutely unbearable that we have to alter it every six months! (Mitchell 87). The Edwardian age was known for the excesses, elegance, and strict social rules modeled by the wealthy. Napoleonic Europe, 1805-1815. Source: Wikipedia, Fig. Photographic print on cabinet card; 17 x 11 cm. 1) (Fukai 214). Cotton twill, cotton braid-covered steel, cotton braid cord. Fall-front gown, ca. Melbourne, Australia: The National Gallery of Victoria, D111.a-b-1974. Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009. Source: National Galleries Scotland, Fig. Though the children wore Western clothes and participated in the local Scout troop and other clubs, their parents required them to attend Chinese school each day, from 4-7 PM. Named for the eponymous hero of a childrens book, the author claimed his characters costume was influenced by the Aesthetic dress of Oscar Wilde (Tortora 405). Glass photonegative; (7 x 5 in). 1810. Pocket Museum. Aster, Jane., and Cairns Collection of American Women Writers. 10 - Pierre-Paul Prud'hon (French, 1758-1823). It consisted of loose trousers buttoned onto a very short jacket, completed with a white shirt featuring an open collar (Fig. 2 - Designer unknown (English). The Immigrants by Charles Blauvelt c. 1850. 1804. Victorian Era: First Bustle and Natural Form (1870-1883), n.d. History of Fashion and Dress. While still narrow, trousers were looser-fitting than pantaloons at the calf and ankle, and they had been present in dress as a young boys garment and wear for sailors. Instead, nudity was suggested in the revealing cut of dresses. Still, neoclassicism continued to dominate fashionable dress (Fig. 7 - Designer unknown (French). This new millinery provided a great deal of space for decoration, and thus hats of the 1880s were elaborately trimmed with ribbons, flowers, lace, and most importantly a gruesome amount of feathers and entire stuffed birds (Fig. Stipple and engraving; (9 1/4 x 5 3/4 in). Similar to womenswear, toddler dresses usually featured low, square necklines, puffed sleeves, and a very high waistline (Buck 66, 106; Ashelford 280-281). Silk. Court costume, ca. Fashion Timeline: 1800 To 1810, n.d. Victoria and Albert Museum. Wilde was keenly aware of the importance of dress in conveying an idea, and he developed his own version of Aesthetic dress (Fig. Given by Mr James Laver CBE. Contact us! 12). Silk, whole birds, feathers, jet. Source: Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library, Fig. Three quarter length portrait of elderly lady in a plaid dress, ca. They were frequently made in the same fabric as the jacket and trousers. The era can be viewed as one long stream of contradictionsa time of prosperity interrupted by the Long Depression of 1873-1879 and the Panic of 1893. 2 - Artist unknown. Bodices could feature long basques, and many bodices were designed with central panels that often imitated a jacket and vest, drawing inspiration from menswear fashions (Fig. Canberra: National Museum of Australia, 2005.0005.0141. History of Fashion 1840 - 1900, July 11, 2013. 1805-1810. Dresses saw minor changes during the 1800s, losing much of the rounded volume of the previous decade. As with the larger Aesthetic and Rational Dress movements, Wildes ideas were not widely accepted. The instep strap on pantaloons is attributed to Brummell as a mechanism to maintain a taut line (Byrde 94). Source: Wikipedia. Cunnington 26). Krick, Jessa. Edinburgh: National Galleries Scotland, NG 2548. Notably, the campaigns of Napoleon Bonaparte brought inspiration from all over the world. Fig. Drawn by oxen or horses, Red River carts carried pelts, dried meats, and animal-skin clothing made by Native Americans, as well as general freight and family or personal . For some it offered adventure or a chance to get rich quick; for others, the opportunity to own land. Interest in classical antiquity had been growing throughout the second half of the eighteenth century, following the excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. 3). Assigned to the Louvre, 1879. 1800. 6) (Shrimpton 38). Matyjaszkiewicz, Krystyna. The extreme restriction placed on womens bodies through the princess-line corsetry, large bustles, and profuse trim prompted criticism from both artistic and health reformers (Shrimpton 22). Brummell wore an immaculate suit of pantaloons, blue dress coat, starched cravat, and polished hessian boots (Figs. The introduction of the princess line narrowed girls dresses, as it did their mothers. Reticules became essential as the eras narrowly-cut skirts prevented the wearing of pockets beneath the dress (Byrde 25-29). In an era in which fit was paramount, his was impeccable. The Little Lord Fauntleroy suit began to gain favor in 1886; it consisted of a velvet tunic and knickerbockers, flounced shirt, and a wide lace collar (Fig. London: Royal Collection Trust, RCIN 2903497. Girl's dress, back view, 1800-1810. 6) to the longer, gently draped polonaise style (Fig. Hoop Skirt Dresses. Evening hat, ca. Privacy Policy (function (w,d) {var loader = function () {var s = d.createElement("script"), tag = d.getElementsByTagName("script")[0]; s.src="https://cdn.iubenda.com/iubenda.js"; tag.parentNode.insertBefore(s,tag);}; if(w.addEventListener){w.addEventListener("load", loader, false);}else if(w.attachEvent){w.attachEvent("onload", loader);}else{w.onload = loader;}})(window, document); The Fashion History Timeline is a project by FITs History of Art Department. This style was sometimes referred to as the Dolly Varden look, named after the character of the same name in Dickens popular novel Barnaby Rudge, set in the eighteenth century, underscoring the looks revivalism influences (Fukai 218; Laver 193). Professor John Wilson (nom de plume, "Christopher North"), 1785-1854, ca. They were used extensively in the fur trade. For example, his occupation of Egypt popularized turbans for evening wear, and sketches of Egyptian ruins inspired palm motifs (Tortora 313; Foster 13). Fig. 4). Given by Miss E. Marian Adeney. Deeply passionate about history and the arts, Harper is dedicated to bringing stories from the past to life. 1880s Portrait Paintings, 1880s. 1804 Napoleon becomes Emperor. Pocket Museum. The spencer was also worn. Notably, the campaigns of Napoleon Bonaparte brought inspiration from all over the world. In the early 1800s, men typically wore knee-length trousers, a waistcoat, and a jacket. 1-2). 13 - Artist unknown (British). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.41.74.1. Font, Lourdes M., and Elizabeth McMahon. Wealthy or working class, enslaved or free, your clothing was made by professional hands in the eighteenth century. Fig. Red River carts were ubiquitous in Minnesota and the Dakota Territory in the early and mid-19th century. Fig. The resemblance between dress drapery and furnishing fabrics was often noted at around this time, particularly the vogue for rich, dark colors and sumptuous three-dimensional effects using velvet, plush (cotton velvet), satin brocade and embossed fabrics (25). A matching silk suit, differentiated from pre-Revolutionary suits only by minor evolutions in cut and the scale of the embroidered motifs, was required at the Tuileries Palace (Fig. Day Dresses, May 1886. Source: Map Mania, 1800-1809, 19th century, artwork analysis, 1790-1799, 1800-1809, 1810-1819, 19th century, P, term definition, 1790-1799, 1800-1809, 1810-1819, 1820-1829, 18th century, 19th century, S, term definition, 1790-1799, 1800-1809, 1810-1819, 19th century, J, S, term definition. Costume Institute/Watson Library @ the Met (. Free shipping for many products! Entered the Hermitage in 1923; transferred from the Stroganov Palace Museum in Petrograd. Outerwear of the 1880s was particularly marked by the mantle or dolman, a garment featuring a wide sleeve cut with the body in one piece, and short basques in the back that exposed the bustle (Fig. Girls clothing and womenswear were closely related. Brummell has been recreated in plays and Hollywood films, and modern menswear brands still invoke his name to represent quality and refinement (David). However, the significance of Oscar Wilde as a voice on 1880s fashion and dress cannot be overstated. Attendance at royal occasions throughout the courts of Europe remained events where ostentatious costume, much more akin to eighteenth-century dress, was required. The influence of neoclassicism could also be seen in fashionable menswear. Breeches extended to the knee where they were fastened with buttons and a buckle or tie (Fig. 1800-1899 Fabrics & Textiles, 1800s. 1 - Napoleon Sarony (American, 1821-1896). 3). Fashion Plate: "London Head Dresses", ca. Waistcoat (Vest), 1800-1810. Kempf (American). Sometimes the jacket had shortened, squared tails in the back (Fig. Selling, Seduction, and Soliciting the Eye: Manets Bar at the Folies-Bergre., Kinney, Leila W. Fashion and Figuration in Modern Life Painting. In. Los Angeles, CA: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.399. Cunnington 28; Davidson 63-64; Laver 155). Womenswear featured an extensive use of trims, including ribbons, ruffles, flounces, shirring, bows, and lace; this over-decoration was not only seen in the evening, but throughout the day (Fukai 216). Neoclassicism now defined fashion as both men and women took inspiration from classical antiquity. 6). Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fig. Source: The Victoria & Albert Museum, Fig. 2 - Robert Dighton (British, 1752-1814). 5 - Photographer unknown. Boston: Museum of Fine Arts, 22.665. After this, boys wore suits consisting of short trousers or knickerbockers that buckled at the knee, and a jacket (Fig. Vincent, Susan J., and Denise Amy Baxter, eds. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 67.132. During the 1800s, even young girls wore their hemlines long to the ankles; it was only in later years that girls hemlines began to climb. Fashion Plate: "Mourning dress" for "Ackermann's Repository", September 1, 1809. Majer, Michele, Lenard R. Berlanstein, Marlis Schweitzer, and Sheila Stowell, eds. Art rests upon law. This change further separated menswear from womenswear. Lieut-Colonel Bryce McMurdo, ca. Joyce Li. c. 1800-1805. Indeed, while both womens and mens clothing was radically changing, the shift in menswear was much longer lasting, with its impacts felt even today (Davidson 30; Byrde 91; le Bourhis 116-117). The frock coat, featuring a waist seam with a full skirt, remained the most formal daywear in town (Fig. A common form was the tippet, a small cape which was often made to match the dress. It is said he was the first to starch the cravat, achieving a crispness that resulted in a splendid knot (Davidson 202). 2). Dolman, 1885-1889. Beginning in the previous decade, men abandoned the practice of powdering their hair and cropped it short, creating a natural, tousled appearance (Fig. 2) (Cunnington 276, 320A; Cumming 61). The Visual Culture of Fashion and the Classical Ideal in Post-Revolutionary France., Siegfried, Susan. Glass photonegative; (7 x 5 in). Or a newly digitized periodical/book to announce? New York: The Brooklyn Museum, 1989.28. (Photo courtesy of Fred Blystone) Throughout their childhood and adolescence, girls wore dresses much like their mothers (Fig. Perhaps womenswear in the 1880s was most marked by the weightiness of decoration (Fig. They began to slowly be accepted as informal wear, especially at the seaside (Davidson 258-259; Foster 28; Byrde 93). Consistent with this mission, the Timelines written commentary, research, and analysis provided by FIT students, faculty, and other members of the community is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. Privacy Policy (function (w,d) {var loader = function () {var s = d.createElement("script"), tag = d.getElementsByTagName("script")[0]; s.src="https://cdn.iubenda.com/iubenda.js"; tag.parentNode.insertBefore(s,tag);}; if(w.addEventListener){w.addEventListener("load", loader, false);}else if(w.attachEvent){w.attachEvent("onload", loader);}else{w.onload = loader;}})(window, document); The Fashion History Timeline is a project by FITs History of Art Department. Lambert, Anne Thrse de Marguenat de Courcelles, John Scott, and Edward Augustus Kendall. ,5th ed. Source: International Center of Photography, Fig. Source: Los Angeles Public Library, Fig. 5) (C.W. The eighteenth-century bicorne, a hat with a turned-up brim creating two points, was still seen (Fig. A growing Anglomania was shifting menswear even before the Revolution. Gift from Mr Jameson, 1948. 1850-1877: Lifestyles, Social Trends, and Fashion: Overview The American Spirit at Midcentury. Both wore calf-length dresses, often called frocks. Copenhagen, Denmark: State Museum of Art, KMS3635. By the mid 1800s, the style of clothing had changed somewhat. Finally, a girl completed her outfit with headwear similar to adult fashions (Buck 212-217; Rose 43). When worn underneath a dress, the "hoop skirt" would flare out, helping to achieve the illusion of a tiny waist, and an over-petticoat would be placed over the cage to smooth over the ridges. Presented by the Rev. Late afternoon and evening dresses (Fig. A Private View at the Royal Academy, 1881, detail, 1883. 1809. 1) (Buck 46, 50). Fig. Source: The National Gallery of Victoria. Evening gowns Evening gowns 5) (Tortora 404). New Haven, CN: Yale University: Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library, 2002262. 1880s Fashion Plates, 1880s. 2). 1): a velvet suit of knee-breeches and soft jacket, flowing tie, and sometimes a Cavalier inspired cloak and hat (Tortora 384). (Met Museum) 1840. Costume in Tissots Pictures. In. In 1882, he embarked on a lecture tour of the United States, promoting Aestheticism and becoming a nationwide sensation (Lambourne 137). Oil on canvas; 61.5 x 50 cm. Young girls even wore the tall bonnets and hats then in vogue (Rose 85; Shrimpton 54). Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress. Albumen print; 14.1 x 9.8 cm. European weavers quickly began to create cheaper imitations, most notably in Paisley, Scotland, and that citys name would become synonymous with the pine or buta/boteh motif (Laver 155; Johnston 40; le Bourhis 77, 81). 3) (Waugh 119). Les Arts Dcoratifs. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. London, U.K.: Christie's. Silk. 1885. 1886. Dresses for morning wear were often of a printed cotton (Fig. Silk; 27 x 20 cm. Cunnington 29, 52-53). 6 - Jens Juel (Danish, 1745-1802). Or a newly digitized periodical/book to announce? 9 - Designer unknown. Brummell, George (Beau)*.in. De Young, Justine. Pocket Museum. These movements, arguably, all coalesced in their influence on fashion in the 1880s. Historic Costume - 19th Century, 1800s. Source: State Hermitage Museum. Charles Frederick Worth (18251895) and the House of Worth. The Mets Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. Les Arts Dcoratifs. Captain Gilbert Heathcote, 1801-1805. Ribeiro, Aileen. 3708. 1), usually with long sleeves (Paoletti 85; Shrimpton 43). The three basic elements were the coat, the waistcoat, and breeches or pantaloons. The first was marked by the princess line and had begun earlier, around 1876. Day dress, 1886. Albumen silver cabinet card; (5 1/2 x 4 in). Tallahassee: State Library and Archives of Florida, HA00426. He helped to strengthen the reputation of the English as standard setters for fashionable male dressthe studied epitome of the unstudied riding-dress style seen as English taste. (202), Fig. Of course, this new style of dress did force a change in underwear. His too too and utterly utter aesthetic fashion style is regularly remarked upon in the media. No discussion of 1880s fashion is complete without mention of the Aesthetic Movement and the calls for dress reform. Printed cotton. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 13.20. Edited by Valerie Steele, 182-184. Cotton muslin with silk embroidery. The Mets Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. David, Alison Matthews. Kyoto: Kyoto Costume Institute, AC10343 2000-26-2AC. Nankeen. Fashion legends abound that tell of women leaving off their stays entirely, and appearing with very little underwear at all; while it seems that some women really did abandon their stays, the practice was not widespread or mainstream. Just as womens clothing had undergone a radical change following the French Revolution, so had mens. The front skirt hung in straight folds to the floor. Muller, Florence, Farid Chenoune, and Phillippe Thibaut. Harper holds a Masters degree in Fashion and History Studies: History, Theory and Museum Practice from the Fashion Institute of Technology. The Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815) played an enormous role in the development of fashion, spreading trends across Europe and inspiring a martial appearance in both men's and women's clothing. Neither reform, Aesthetic dress nor Rational Dress, were accepted into the mainstream, and were both mercilessly mocked in the press (Laver 200). Then, at about age three or four, a boy was breeched, a rite of passage in which he received his first trousers. Jackets were increasingly worn and cut to fit over the bustle style of any particular year (Tortora 392). Representing the Modern Woman: The Fashion Plate Reconsidered (1865-1875). In, De Young, Justine. The sack or lounge suit, marked by its relaxed jacket, single or double-breasted, without a waist seam, remained the most informal choice for day (Tortora 401). It was usually paired with loose knee-breeches and gaiters (Tortora 401; Laver 202, 204). 6 - Artist unknown (British). 1800-1810. Skirts usually featured overskirts that were swagged and tucked up in various ways to reveal the underskirt, which was frequently ruffled or pleated; these overskirts ranged from from pannier-type styles (Fig. Source: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Fig. 1882. The sailor suit, first introduced in the 1840s, became a favorite for boys from about the age of four through early adolescence (Olian vi; Shrimpton 49). 2, 5). The straighter, slimmer appearance of the 1800s was also echoed in the bodice back which featured seams that created a distinctive kite or diamond shape and gave a very slim, small-backed effect. 6); pantaloons, which had originated in the 1790s, were very tightly-fitted and longer, extending to the calf or ankle where they fastened with ties or buttons (Fig. Like the general trend in menswear, boys clothing grew quite narrow in the 1880s (Shrimpton 47). If you have suggestions or corrections, pleasecontact us. Have a primary source to suggest? Gift of Geoffrey Shurlock, 1967. Paris: Louvre Museum, R.F. The morning coat, a cutaway jacket with a waist seam, was a slightly less formal choice for daywear (Fig. Source: Royal Collection Trust, Fig. Fashion historian Aileen Ribeiro summarized these shifts, writing: For most of the eighteenth century there was a sartorial harmony in the dress of men and women; they were united in their love of color, elegant design, and luxurious materials. Infants were dressed in long, back-fastening dresses featuring a low neckline and short sleeves, and a simple baby cap (Fig. The year 1800 heralded a new century and a new world. Notably, as discussed in Womenswear, Napoleon brought back the court costumes of the ancien rgime, which had disappeared in France during the Revolution. Outerwear was important for girls as the short-sleeves and low necklines of fashionable dress offered little protection. It was made in a variety of shapes, usually in felt; although the silk top hat began to be seen around 1803, it was not perfected until the 1830s (Ginsburg 85-86; le Bourhis 112-113). Pocket Museum. London: Thames & Hudson, Ltd, 2012. . Breeches and pantaloons were often made of jersey or wool cut on the bias, providing an incredibly close fit, which when combined with the cream color often chosen, gave a revealing, almost nude effect; like the draperies of womens gowns, this effect recalled Greek or Roman statues (Byrde 90; Ashelford 185). In the 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot sleeve of womenswear in its use of a new fullness at the sleeve cap. Not Just a Pretty Picture: Fashion as News. In. The look was completed with his long, smoothly curled hairstyle (Lambourne 134-135). . Contact us! Last updated Aug 24, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Oct 14, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated May 16, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Nov 2, 2020 | Published on Mar 26, 2020. However, Brummell took this style and best distilled it, fusing the wearer and the dress in his person (Davidson 201). 5). 7) (Tortora 321; Davidson 28-29). The cage crinoline was invented in the mid-1800s and was constructed to have a framework made of steel, whalebone, or cane. The top hat was now the dominant form of headwear. Elevated as a style icon, he presaged the contemporary dominance of fashion and celebrity. (Cicolini). However, neoclassicism was not the only influence on fashion during the 1800s. Oil on canvas; 236 x 149.30 cm. 3 - Franois-Xavier Fabre (French, 1766-1837). Source: The Met Digital Collections, Fig. Source: Museum of Fine Arts, Fig. Source: Florida Memory. Fig. Oscar Wilde, 1882. Court suit, ca. Aesthetic dress was also notable for its earth-toned colors, such as mossy green and ochre yellow (Shrimpton 22). Neckwear was a crucial element of a mans wardrobe. 8 - James Tissot (French, 1836-1906). MacDonald, Margaret F., Susan Grace Galassi, Aileen Ribeiro, and Samuel Sachs. Source: Royal Collection Trust. The bustle silhouette was better accommodated by jackets and coat-like garments, as opposed to cloaks and capes that were dominant earlier in the century. For shooting and country activities, a Norfolk jacket, marked by its pleated back and belted waist, was the most common ensemble. 9). The most extreme manifestations of the Revolutionary classical dress, such as the dampening of gowns so that they clung to the body, were rarely seen after 1800; indeed, those radical fashions had seldom ever been seen outside of France (C.W. 1800-1809 Fashion Plates, 1800s. Women in front of their house, Barton, Vermont. 1800-1809 Womens Fashion, 1800s. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 32.35.10. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fig. Costume Institute/Watson Library @ the Met (. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessoriesfrom wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween . Throughout the 1880s, day bodices and dresses featured high, narrow shoulders descending into impossibly tight sleeves, a departure from the low, sloping shoulders of the past few decades. The riding coat, a less formal choice, sloped gently from the waist back to the tails (Fig. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.1001ac. 4 - Designer unknown. Oil on canvas; 240 x 148 cm. In the 1880s, the notched collar of previous years tailcoats were often replaced with a continuous rolled collar faced in satin. A separate spheres ideology began to take hold during the 1800s, with men increasingly involved in serious business pursuits outside the home as the Industrial Revolution continued and women relegated to dependent caretakers inside the home. The French Revolution brought the old world hierarchy crashing down, forever altering dress during the 1790s. 1, 5). 11) and the redingote, both types of coat, and the spencer, a cropped jacket (Ashelford 179; C.W. Source for information on 1850-1877: Lifestyles, Social Trends, and Fashion . 5). Source: Wikimedia, Fig. The imperial commissions alone saved the French fashion industry which had been decimated during the Revolution (Fukai 125; le Bourhis 84-94, 100). 13 - Designer unknown. 1802. 2). 1). 1 - John Russell (British, 1745-1806). Beyond fashion, Brummell represented many of the larger shifts of the era and foreshadowed trends to come: Beau Brummell captured in the turn of his cuff and the knot of his cravat the studied irony and languor that defined his age[his posturing] aptly crystallized the uncertainty of a period that witnessed the decline of aristocracy and the early rise of democratic politicsin many ways he anticipated the modern era-a world of social mobility in which taste was privileged above birth and wealth. Napoleon gave the silk industry a much-needed boost in an imperial decree that French silk be worn at formal ceremonies (Fig. By 1884, the bustle had returned, this time a hard, shelf-like protrusion that projected from the small of the back (Fig. 4 - James McNeill Whistler (American, 18341903). His was a dandyism of austere refinement, one in which the man shines through the clothes (Byrde 94-95; Cicolini). Fig. Mrs. Robert Shurlock (Henrietta Ann Jane Russell, 1775-1849) and Her Daughter, Ann, 1801. Albumen print; 7.0 x 4.1 cm. London: The Victoria & Albert Museum, T.24-1946. Albumen print. 10 - Emile Pingat (French, 1820-1901). Fashion in the 1880s was increasingly slender and angular, marked by heavy decoration. 3 - Daniel Whittaker (American, 1832-1910). Maeder, Edward, and Evelyn Ackerman, eds. To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below. Carroll, George D., and Dempsey & Carroll. The Lillie Langtry bustle was a series of metal bands that could be folded up to allow the wearer to sit (Laver 198). Source: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Fig. 11). 1 - Ballater W. Watson. Birmingham, U.K.: Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, 1938P680. Fig. For much of the early 1800s, women's dresses flared up from the waist downwards to give themselves a more voluptuous profile. The new classical style, imitating the clothing of ancient democracies, seemed to be evidence of a political philosophy on the rise (Tortora 313-314; Byrde 23). Source: Pinterest. Four Young Women, ca. The slim, vertical line of the garments themselves reflected the neoclassical preference for clean geometry expressed in other visual and applied arts (Byrde 23-24; Tortora 313-314; C.W. 7 - Designer unknown. Man's Morning Coat and Vest, ca. Lavin, Eliza M., and Cairns Collection of American Women Writers. Oil on canvas; (47.2 x 28.8 in). As toddlers, boys and girls were dressed in similar clothes. 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